家徒四壁也要穿名牌!從剛果泥濘土地開出的「薩普之花」:對抗殖民者的優越感,盼以華服昇華生活苦難

2020-10-30 18:10

? 人氣

剛果的「薩普」穿搭次文化。(左:Eguanakla@Wikipedia/CC BY-SA 4.0/右:薩伊迪新書封面)

剛果的「薩普」穿搭次文化。(左:Eguanakla@Wikipedia/CC BY-SA 4.0/右:薩伊迪新書封面)

提到非洲,許多人的第一印象就是飢荒、內戰以及落後的生活環境,然而剛果卻有一群身穿西裝華服的秀異分子,以「薩普」之名展現堪比西方時尚的次文化。來自英國的獨立攝影師薩伊迪特地遠赴中非,試圖拍攝與了解這些「薩普爾」的身影與心路歷程,並寫成《薩普爾:剛果的紳士與淑女》一書。薩伊迪指出,「薩普協會」不僅是華服的代名詞,更是剛果反抗殖民的精神象徵,藉以忘卻生活中的苦難。

泥濘中盛開的花朵

美國有線電視新聞網(CNN)日前摘錄薩伊迪的新書內容,他在2017年至2019年間,前往剛果共和國首都金沙薩(Kinshas)及剛果民主共和國首都布拉薩(Brazzavill),這兩處正是「薩普」這種次文化最為盛行之地。所謂「薩普」(La Sape)其實是「氛圍營造者和雅士協會」(Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes)的法語字母簡稱。碰巧的是,「sape」一詞在法語中也有「服飾」之意;協會成員統稱「薩普爾」。

在薩伊迪看來,薩普爾充滿強烈風格的優雅穿搭,與他們所處的惡劣環境形成鮮明對比。剛果(無論是剛果共和國或是剛果民主共和國)雖是世界上最貧困的地區,但在這片土地上所開出的「薩普」之花,卻透過追隨者們展現出非凡的風景。薩伊迪說,剛果人其實非常注重自己的儀表,但「薩普」更將剛果的審美提升到一個新的高度。

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Meet the remarkable Sapeurs of the Congo...⁣ ⁣ These images were made in the streets of the 2 capitals cities Congo Kinshasa and Congo Brazzaville. The series is about people who are part of a fashion culture in Congo called: La Sape, Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes (Society of Ambiance-Makers and Elegant People). Its followers are known as »Sapeurs« (»Sapeuses« for women). Most have ordinary day jobs as taxi-drivers, tailors and gardeners, but as soon as they clock out they transform themselves into debonair dandies. Sashaying through the streets they are treated like rock stars – turning heads, bringing ‘joie de vivre’ to their communities and defying their circumstances. True Sapologie is about more than expensive labels: the true art lies in a sapeur’s ability to put together an elegant look unique to their personality. As Papa Wemba (Congolese singer and fashion icon who popularised Sape) once said: “White people invented the clothes, but we (Africans) make an art of it.”⁣ ⁣ In this image: Boukaka, 30-year-old electrician and sapeur for 25 years, in Brazzaville. Image by @tariqzaidiphoto ⁣ ⁣ This series, which I started making in 2017 is part of a larger body of work which will be published as a book. “SAPEURS: Ladies and Gentlemen of the Congo” (176 pages with 121 colour illustrations) – book out end Sep 2020! ⁣ ⁣ Book pre-order link in my profile above. ⁣ ⁣ You can also order now via any Amazon.com or contact the publisher directly by email here: contact@kehrerverlag.com for a copy. ⁣ ⁣ For a Special Collector’s Limited Edition ("book and exhibition quality print") please see options available on the publisher’s website - link here https://bit.ly/3jFAjD8 . ⁣ ⁣ #sape #sapeur #sapeuse #sapeurchildren #Congo #fashion #culture #blackdandies #Brazzaville #Kinshasa #CongoBrazzaville #CongoKinshasa #designer #culture #subculture #Sapologie #sapeurwomen #fashionista #instafashion #instastyle #dandies #everydayafrica #Photography #fashioneditorial #reportagespotlight #photobook #portraits #reportage #art #style⁣ ⁣ ©Tariq Zaidi. All Rights Reserved

Tariq Zaidi(@tariqzaidiphoto)分享的貼文 於 張貼

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Meet the remarkable Sapeurs of the Congo...⁣ ⁣ These images were made in the streets of the 2 capitals cities Congo Kinshasa and Congo Brazzaville. The series is about people who are part of a fashion subculture in Congo called: La Sape, Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes (Society of Ambiance-Makers and Elegant People). Its followers are known as »Sapeurs« (»Sapeuses« for women). Most have ordinary day jobs as taxi-drivers, tailors and gardeners, but as soon as they clock out they transform themselves into debonair dandies. Sashaying through the streets they are treated like rock stars – turning heads, bringing ‘joie de vivre’ to their communities and defying their circumstances. True Sapologie is about more than expensive labels: the true art lies in a sapeur’s ability to put together an elegant look unique to their personality. As Papa Wemba (Congolese singer and fashion icon who popularised Sape) once said: “White people invented the clothes, but we (Africans) make an art of it.”⁣ ⁣ In this image: Michele (left), 48-year-old mechanic and sapeur for 33 years. Jules Tedy (right), 41 years old, sapeur for 19 years. Brazzaville. Image by @tariqzaidiphoto ⁣ ⁣ This series, which I started making in 2017 is part of a larger body of work which will be published as a book. “SAPEURS: Ladies and Gentlemen of the Congo” (176 pages with 121 colour illustrations) will be out very soon. You can pre-order now via any Amazon.com or contact the publisher directly by email here: contact@kehrerverlag.com For a Special Collector’s Limited Edition ("book and exhibition quality print") please see options available on the publisher’s website - link here https://bit.ly/3jFAjD8⁣ ⁣ #sape #sapeur #sapeuse #sapeurchildren #Congo #fashion #culture #blackdandies #Brazzaville #Kinshasa #CongoBrazzaville #CongoKinshasa #designer #culture #subculture #Sapologie #sapeurwomen #fashionista #style #instafashion #instastyle #dandies #everydayafrica #Photography #fashioneditorial #reportagespotlight #photobook #portraits #reportage⁣ ⁣ ©Tariq Zaidi. All Rights Reserved

Tariq Zaidi(@tariqzaidiphoto)分享的貼文 於 張貼

「華麗服飾」與不敗精神

剛果的倫巴歌手帕帕・溫巴(Papa Wemba)就以強烈的「薩普」風格聞名。溫巴說,他會這麼穿搭的靈感,其實來自於他的父母。早在上個世紀的六零年代,溫巴的父母就把衣服穿搭的很好看,看起來總是非常時髦。薩伊迪指出,薩普爾在剛果社會被視為如明星一般的存在,他們為這個飽受戰亂與對立的國家,帶來了一絲希望與喜悅。

確實,對這個7成人口都生活在貧困之中的國家來說,花錢置裝、購買煙斗與絲襪當然顯得奢侈,但對薩普爾來說,這麼做不僅是為忘卻苦難,更是一種微妙的抗爭行動:一種扭轉權力地位、對他們所處的經濟條件展現反抗精神的行為。

薩普開山始祖

薩伊迪指出,「薩普」這種次文化的起源,可以追溯自1920年代,那時剛果遭到比利時殖民,家僕們常從歐洲的主人拿到二手衣物作為報酬。不過當時的剛果僕人為對抗殖民者的優越感,開始自覺性的拒絕這些二手衣物,堅持用自己微薄的薪水購買巴黎最時尚的服裝。

1960年剛果獨立後,布拉薩與金沙薩成為非洲菁英的聚集之地,他們也會從巴黎、倫敦帶回名牌服飾。正如溫巴所說的:「白人發明了(現代社會的)衣飾,但我們(非洲人)把這些衣飾變成了一門藝術。」雖然剛果曾在1980年代禁止「薩普」這種次文化,但隨著社會開放,「薩普」這幾年又再度復甦。 「薩普爾」過去通常是是男性,但如今許多剛果女性最近也開始穿著名牌西服,顛覆傳統重男輕女的觀念。

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Meet the remarkable Sapeurs of the Congo...⁣ ⁣ These images were made in the streets of the 2 capitals cities Congo Kinshasa and Congo Brazzaville. The series is about people who are part of a fashion subculture in Congo called: La Sape, Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes (Society of Ambiance-Makers and Elegant People). Its followers are known as »Sapeurs« (»Sapeuses« for women). Most have ordinary day jobs as taxi-drivers, tailors and gardeners, but as soon as they clock out they transform themselves into debonair dandies. Sashaying through the streets they are treated like rock stars – turning heads, bringing ‘joie de vivre’ to their communities and defying their circumstances. True Sapologie is about more than expensive labels: the true art lies in a sapeur’s ability to put together an elegant look unique to their personality. As Papa Wemba (Congolese singer and fashion icon who popularised Sape) once said: “White people invented the clothes, but we (Africans) make an art of it.”⁣ ⁣ In this image: Okili, 10-year-old school student and sapeur for 5 years, in Brazzaville. Image by @tariqzaidiphoto ⁣ ⁣ This series, which I started making in 2017 is part of a larger body of work which will be published as a book. “SAPEURS: Ladies and Gentlemen of the Congo” (176 pages with 121 colour illustrations) will be out very soon. You can pre-order now via any Amazon.com or contact the publisher directly by email here: contact@kehrerverlag.com For a Special Collector’s Limited Edition ("book and exhibition quality print") please see options available on the publisher’s website - link here https://bit.ly/3jFAjD8⁣ ⁣ #sape #sapeur #sapeuse #sapeurchildren #Congo #fashion #culture #blackdandies #Brazzaville #Kinshasa #CongoBrazzaville #CongoKinshasa #designer #culture #subculture #Sapologie #sapeurwomen #fashionista #style #instafashion #instastyle #dandies #everydayafrica #Photography #fashioneditorial #reportagespotlight #photobook #portraits #reportage⁣ ⁣ ©Tariq Zaidi. All Rights Reserved

Tariq Zaidi(@tariqzaidiphoto)分享的貼文 於 張貼

如今,各年齡層的薩普爾仍會聚在一起跳舞、聊天,有趣的是,布拉薩和金沙薩的薩普爾彼此還存在著「時尚戰」,不時舉辦走秀、舞會等活動來相互交流,也從中展現出不同與戰亂苦難的文明舉止。薩伊迪表示,薩普是剛果文化遺產至為重要的一部分,這個經歷殖民、腐敗、內亂與貧窮之苦的國家,甚至可望藉此平復。它是一項不斷進步的次文化運動,所有曾經受苦、喪失權益的年輕薩普爾,則用時尚帶領剛果邁向世界。

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